Chris was lots better this morning and we woke up early naturally and still were on our way by 6am. It's been cold every morning and our packs are light because we are wearing everything -- puffy jackets, fleece top and pants, mittens, wool beanies. This morning there was even frost. So we very happy as the sun gradually rose and began very slowly to warm up the day. The transition from cold to warm is in its way as moving as the transition from dark to light.
At our first rest stop we met a young man named Corey from Sometset England who is the first we have met who regularly likes to start walking in the dark and watch the day dawn. He lit up so radiantly when he talked about walking through dawn I had to take his picture (photo 1).
We cut our rest stop short because we were looking forward to fresh orange juice and a Spanish tortilla (a delicious version of an egg, potato and onion frittata) and a longer rest an hour and a half later. We were, however, fearful that nothing might be open given that is Sunday and we were told it was some kind of important festival day (saint's day and/or Mother's Day).
So we were pleased to see two small bars but Chris was really hoping for one with outside tables in the sun. River who was nursing a hopefully temporary foot pain and possible injury just wanted to sit down, but we walked on and left the Camino in search of a place in the sun. We found a small store with a sunny plaza and benches, but it didn't have tortillas. It occurred to River we might settle for fresh oranges in the sun but it didn't occur to her to suggest this to Chris, who hadn't actually noticed the oranges. Chris suggested we go back to one of the open bars and River turned into a little donkey and dig in her hooves and said "I don't like to go back." So we went forward but alas there were no more bars and we found ourselves at the far end of town with no rest, no orange juice, no tortilla.
Some miles later we stopped at a rest stop with benches in the sun, beside a stream and trees just beginning to bud. Chris sat in the sun and closed her eyes. River lay on the ground and put her feet up against a tree. Photos 2,3 and 4 hope to show how peaceful that hour was.
We reached Reliegos before 2 pm and decided to stay in a private (and for an alburgue, upscale, 9 eu per bed instead of 5, no upper bunks, only 6 beds per room) and finally we got our fresh squeezed orange juice and our tortilla and a table in the sun.
We napped and showered and wrote this blog, scouted our morning route, and found a store for a little cheese and fruit for breakfast. Now we are almost ready to go downstairs for our evening meal. Tomorrow, Leon, a city we both remember with great affection (In 2012, River found a healer there who was able to get her back on the Camino after riding taxis in daily chunks the whole distance from Burgos to Leon with other wounded pilgrims because of shin splints. It's also where River saw her first Gaudi and first fell in love.) It will also complete our first week on the Camino this year.
Thank you as always for walking with us.
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