We got up early as usual. The morning tiptoeing around trying not to wake other pilgrims in the shared alburgue room reminded River of being a teenager sneaking out without waking the parents. Both of us felt quite a bit better, and River's injured foot was able to walk the full 15 miles (a very auspiicious sign). She discovered that walking while listening to music reduced stress on the foot, probably because she dances a little and it makes her gait and footing more varied and playful. Taking exactly the same steps again and again creates repetitive motion stress injury.
River was worried that if she listened to music Chris might feel abandoned. As it turned out, Chris was relieved to have time to sink into reverie with no talking from River. It sure helps to communicate.
Photo 1 shows some of the parallel planted trees River admires, in the early morning light.
At our first rest stop Chris asked River how long she wanted to stay. River said 30 minutes. They stayed 30 minutes. A miracle of clear communication. At our second rest stop, the miracle repeated itself. (And the orange juice, fried eggs, potatoes, and chorizo were good too. )
Photo 2 shows our approach to the small village where we enjoyed our second rest stop. If you look closely you will see cows in the field to the right. All morning especially in the dark when we are really aware of smells Chris kept asking "There's all this manure - but where are the cows?" So River was very pleased to point out the cows who must be the source of the manure whose fragrance we had been walking through all morning.
We arrived at Leon a little after noon and got settled in at our albergue in an old monastery. We showered, washed and hung up our laundry, and found a sunny table in the Santa Maria square opposite our monastery wehrre we had beers and a very good lunch. Then we strolled around the city, visiting the Gaudi bank building we both love. Photo 3 shows the sculpture of St. George killing the dragon (above the door), which has more impact after being in Catalonia, Gaudi's home, for the celebration of St. George's day. I love that the custom of giving roses on St. George's Day begins when St. George slays the dragon to rescue the damsel in distress. The blood of the dragon becomes a red rose that he hands to her. So lovers are metaphorically skating dragons for their beloveds every time they hand them a rose. But why over a bank door? Maybe Gaudi wants to suggest that our deeds in the mundane world of economics can be motivated by love and therefore be as romantic as St. George slaying the dragon.
Here's Chris hanging out with the Gaudi sculpture on the bench facing the building (photo 4). There was a charming young couple there at the same time -- the man was an architect and posed leaning into Gaudi and pointing at his sketch pad. "I'm telling him everything that's wrong with his blueprint," he said.
And in photo 4 River (who has been strolling around lovely Leon hoping to find a camping store where we could each get an extra pair of socks-- in preparation for the predicted week or more of continuous rainy weather starting Thursday or Friday, we thought an extra pair of dry socks would do no harm) approaching Chris on the Gaudi bench.
River found the camping store but like most other stores it was closed because May 1 (which appears to be both Mother's Day and Labor Day) having fallen on a Sunday, Monday was a national holiday.
We spent the evening sitting at a sidewalk cafe on the walking street that extends from the Gaudi bank building to the Carhedral. We loved watching people -- mostly locals we think -- strolling, bicycling, roller skating, walking dogs, pushing baby carriages, many of them quite dressed up for the holiday.
Enough for May 2.
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