Day 20, May 15, Taverna Vella to Lavacolla

Day 20, Sunday, May 15. Taverna Vella (mile 465.4) to Lavacolla (mile 379.6). Walked 14.2 miles. 

We were very excited to have the sun come out for the first time in what felt like weeks Also Simon told us that the weather prediction suggested warm sunny weather ahead. Photo 1 shows Simon with Lady, one of the four cats and three dogs that live at Heidi's home, where Simon and his dog (with whom he walked his multiple Caminos) have lived for a year. 

 

We even got to walk in our t-shirts for part of the day. We were still making our way through mud (photo 2) but were thrilled to be able to see the sun coming up (photo 3). 

 

 

And loved seeing sunlight between trees in the woods (photo 4) 

 

As always there was a simple joy in finding the arrows and way markers and knowing we were on the Camino. Photo 5 shows a spot with three different styles of markers. We felt very secure. 

 

We had planned to stop just outside Santiago -- in an area where, alas, there are no alburgues. So the first time ever (on this Camino) we stayed at a hotel. We felt a little out of place. Many people make this choice in order to arrive fresh at the Cathedral in Santiago the next day. We found ourselves not very interested in Santiago this year and had imagined just walking through and starting on our final part of Camino to Finisterre and Muxia. Simon so enthusiastically recommended Muxia (where we had never been) over Finisterre that we were leaning toward walking straight to Muxia. 

However while River was luxuriating in a warm bath she had the idea that maybe given Chris' (unmentionable) sore foot, we might consider taking a bus to Muxia instead, and perhaps walking back from Muxia to Santiago after a few days of rest and relaxation and reading. BIG change of plans. 

Day 19, May 14, Melide to Taberna Vella

Day 19, Saturday, May 14, from Melide (mile 453.6) to Taverna Vella (mile 465.4). Walked 11.8 miles. 

We found an enticing description of a very small (8 beds) private albergue referred to in our German guidebook (that Chris' sister Hanna had introduced us to) as "Heidi's home." There was no sign and except for the guidebook we would have had no clue. We later learned the German author (a friend of Heidi's) had nevertheless included it without her permission and that formerly it was known only by word of mouth. So we couldn't resist calling for reservations.  And here we are. 

Photos 1 and 2 show the brand new kitchen built by volunteer Simon (born in London, has lived in Minnesota and southern Spain, last year walked the Camino with his dog until he "understood" -- that meant walking from Gibralter to Madrid to Santiago-Finisterre-Muxia and then "backwards" to St. Jean and back toward Santiago again until his dog told him to stop here and he understood. 

This room was originally a shelter for pilgrims traveling with donkeys. As with all buikdibgs along the Camino, the existing structures must be preserved in the renovation process. All of it is considered cultural heritage. 

Our day started out misty and rainy but we are told that the sun will come out tomorrow -- and stay out. May it be so. (We know heat will be an issue but that's hard for either of us to imagine right now. ). 

Photos 3 through 5 are River's attempt to share the wet green beauty of the morning

We are both feeling simple happiness in this magical little alburgue. The shower was exceptional and we find ourselves more blissfully relaxed than in any other albergue so far. We will probably have another little nap before the communal meal prepared by woodworker/chef Simon. 

Day 18, May 13, Ligonde to Melide

Day 18, Friday, May 13, Ligonde (mile 439.3) to Melide (mile 453.6). Walked 14.3 miles. 

We didn't do much today but walk and get wet. 

But we got to the albergue and got dry, so we had a happy day. 

Day 17, May 12, Mercadoiro to Ligonde

Day 17, Thursday, May 12, Mercadoiro (mile 425.7) to Ligonde (mile 439.3). Walked 13.6 miles. 

Today was mostly a rainy day but luckily no really heavy downpours. 

At our first very crowded rest stop we again ran into David and Jacques, who made room for us at their table. They shared the sad side of their relationship -- that they have been rejected by David's three children. River decided to add those children to her walking Camino prayer. David first walked the Camino 17 years ago, after his wife died, in memory of their having followed the Camino together by car a few years earlier. Photo 1 shows Chris and David. 

We kept seeing farms of what appeared to be Eucalyptus trees (photo 2 and 3).  River was very curious what they were raised for that might be marketable. 

Just before we arrived at our albergue our herd of human pilgrims paused and then followed another herd of cow pilgrims. (Photo 4). 

We had planned all along to end today's walk at Ligonde at the first alburgue we came too. But we were a little chagrined to arrive in a very small and somewhat strange alburgue where the smiling friendly volunteers in their orange vests seemed to outnumber the pilgrims. We saw only 6 beds all less than a foot apart the other four occupied by German young men in their early 20s (if that). There seemed to be a spiritual agenda for both the afternoon and the communal evening meal that made us uncomfortable (we were expected to share spiritual reflections after dinner).  Luckily we were once again able to extricate ourselves from a poor initial decision and to make our way to the other albergue. 

The young woman who runs this albergue had been extraordinarily welcoming and helpful including giving us a ride to the nearby bar when Chris' sore foot (which of course we are not going to mention) made walking there uncomfortable.  

Day 16, Part 2. May 11, Sarria to Mercadoiro

Day 16, Part 2.  Wednesday, May 11, Sarria (mile 415) to Mercadoiro (mile 425.7). Walked 10.7 miles. 

It was a beautiful sunny day with a blue cloudless sky in the morning, after a week of clouds and rain. 

Photos 1 and 2 show sights along the way. 

Photo 3 shows people working in traditional (low tech) ways. This area is an amazing mixture of ancient and modern that we both find moving. 

Photo 4 shows a field that we think may grow the greens used in the traditional Galician soup (potatoes, greens, white beans) that we really enjoy. Remind us a bit of kale but more tender and quite mild: chard? We don't know. 

Figure 5 shows a dog (I think a boxer) in front of an albergue In Mercado where we stayed 2012. River surprised and delighted herself by remembering the dog (she has few memories of this part even though we both know we walked it) -- he was stiffer and older, but the same dog. A whole group of memories of the lovely alburgue and its valley blossomed, Proust-style, out of the memory of the dog.  

Photo 6 shows a little table where fruit was offered free to pilgrims and photo 7 an example of the interesting crucifix/altar/art one finds along the Camino. 

The Camino was crowded with many pilgrims. Among the many were two men we passed walking up a steep hill who we right away guessed might be a couple. Later we saw them again and they confirmed that they had been together 9 years. Photo 8 shows David, an 80-year-old retired Anglican priest and organist, and Jacques, his very ebullient 52-year/old half English half-Lebanese companion.  Jacques spoke of how grateful he is to live in a country not at war after a youth and young adulthood in war-torn Lebanon.  

We stayed at a lovely Albergue in the country (photo 9) and had dinner at a communal table where we enjoyed talking with two American couples who met 5 weeks ago in St Jean Pied a Port and have walked together ever since. (A retired college admissions director and nurse from North Carolina, and nurse and physical therapist from Arizona). 

River felt almost reborn -- healthier than she had felt in many months. And very grateful to still be walking.  

Day 16, Part 1. May 11, Sarria to Mercadoiro

Day 16, part 1. Wednesday, May 11, Sarria (mile 415) to Mercadoiro (mile 425.7). Walked 10.7 miles. 

River isn't sure whether to attribute her miracle to the magical one-dose giardia cure, homeopathy, divine intervention (she had a beautiful spirit visit from her first soul-mate/spiritual friend Theresa when she was sobbing at her absolute nadir--Teri touched her cheek and let her feel that she was loved and that was enough), or unknown causes. She also doesn't know if it's one-day fluke or sustainable healing. But the miracle is no poop since yesterday afternoon! And lots of energy and feeling well in a way she hasn't felt in months. Maybe the parasite hypothesis was correct. 

Our original plan was to spend a day and another night in Sarria waiting to discover if River responded to the treatment. We had already received permission to spend a second night in our very special alburgue. So we slept late and woke to beautiful morning views from our albergue windows (photos 1-3). 

We went out for a late and leisurely breakfast to a four star hotel where they had an amazingly generous (for us pilgrims truly luxurious) breakfast buffet that reminded Chris of the breakfast at that wonderful hotel in Nafplion that we stayed in on Chris' Greek tours. Photos 3 and 4 show the breakfast buffet. 

After breakfast it seemed so clear that River was doing dramatically better that we both agreed that we would rather be walking than resting (bet you are all very surprised). 

Photo 6 shows the view looking down the stairs as we leave our alburgue (on right). 

Photo 7 shows a horse as we left Sarria. River wanted to photograph it because she didn't succeed in getting a picture of the horse outside our albergue window.  

To be continued

Day 15, May 10, Triacastela to Sarria

Day 15, Tuesday, May 15, Triacastela (mile 400) to Sarria (mile 415). Walked 15 mile. 

We got up early and walked through beautiful countryside for hours with the trail all to ourselves. What a blessing and how unimaginable after spending a night in a room with over 100 beds filled with pilgrims in O'Cebreiro. 

Photos 1 through 6 give you a hint of the quality of our day. Although we knew rain was coming later in the day, we arrived at our albergue before 3pm and were completely spared rain. 

Here are another couple of examples of the wonderful slate roofs (photos 8 and 9). 

For the first time ever we made reservations ahead for an albergue Chris had really fallen in love with four years ago. Alas however it was the wrong alburgue. But after considerable embarrassment and matrimonial challenge, we made our way to where we really wanted to be and luckily there were still beds available. 

Once we were at the alburgue, showered and resting, River realized that despite her efforts the diarrhea had gotten worse every day to the point that she did not think she could continue to walk. (At this point she was leaking into pads continually,  and the soiled pads were irritating her skin, despite changing them at every rest stop.) We talked everything over and decided that our next great adventure would be finding a way to head home early - bus to Santiago, new plane tickets back to Barcelona, new plane tickets to Seattle. Neither of us thought that diagnosis or treatment of River's condition would be simple or easy, and it just didn't seem possible to try to handle it here. We were actually both a little relieved to be facing the problem and acting on it. 

Then at the pharmacy where we stopped to get more pads (having used 7 in one day the supply no longer seemed so large) the English speaking pharmacist encouraged us to see a local doctor. Over dinner (which was exceptionally good) we discussed that possibility -- recognizing there was one plausible diagnosis that might be relatively simple to treat:  chronic guardia. River's diarrhea which she had self-diagnosed as lactose sensitivity actually began in the final weeks on the PCT last fall, so it was a plausible hypothesis these symptoms could be an aggravation of a chronic parasite problem. We looked up on the internet an NIH article and found that a single dose of a drug called Tinidazol was the recommended treatment when overseas. Back at the pharmacy to ask if River would need a prescription to purchase it: no. For under 5 Euros, we can home with the single dose, which River has now taken. Stay tuned for further news.