We slept late yet again this time in our new albergue (pronounced all-BEAR-gay, as Chris noticed that Simon pronounced it, not all-bear-GAY, as River had been pronouncing it). Then we sipped coffee in the beautifully stocked albergue kitchen before heading out to our usual breakfast cafe.
After breakfast we strolled along the coast to the Church of the Virgin of the Boat and tried to locate the tipping rock and rock sail (which apparently were sites of pagan pilgrimage and rites of passage long before they became part of a Christian miracle story). Photo 1 shows River taking a photo of the coastline (part of the Costa de Morte, famous for shipwrecks and most recently a disastrous oil spill, as well as longtime pilgrimage and ritual holy place).
And photo 2 is the picture River was taking. Chris had said she was surprised River wasn't clambering over the rocks to get closer to the ocean, and so of course River at once started clambering. Photo 3 shows the amazing little wildflowers growing there among the rocks and tide pools.
On the walk back we were both curious about the old stone walls -- it didn't seem reasonable that they were enclosing pastures or that they were the walls of long ago houses -- River wondered if they had s ritual significance -- Chris finally guessed they were dividing the land into plots and terraces for gardening. Photo 4 shows the walls.
We are enjoying the rest and the time to reflect on our Camino. One of the interesting themes of this Camino for River has been meditating on the difference between how she and Chris typically respond to pain and discomfort. River focuses rather aggressively on diagnosis, etiology, and treatment. Chris tends to see these changes very much the way she sees weather: variations in the everchanging nature of things that do not require (and in fact would elude our attempts at) labels, explanation of causes, or attempts to control. So that diarrhea or back or foot pain are just like clouds and rain. The sky isn't always sunny nor do we expect to explain or control it when it isn't. It is just what is happening. Strange for River (who thinks of herself as a skeptic in relation to science and rationality) to see herself so firmly entrenched in a Western scientific, rational tradition and Chris more Taoist ( and River's desire to note and label these differences just another example...).
River is wondering, as we approach the final chapter of our lives, aging and dying, if the metaphor of weather might often be more comforting (perhaps in its own way more healing) than the metaphors of western medicine?
We're sitting here in the sun again, this time with white wine and an empanada, wondering whether we will rest another day in Muxia and then bus to Finisterre, or whether we will attempt the walk to Finnesterre in two relatively short gentle 10 mile days. We know what is wise, and, unlike in the early days of our Camino, we will probably bow this time to what is wise.
"We don't know!" Chrissy says, with a mischievous giggle.
To be continued
I like to think of the sky (Oregon sky) as always changing her mind like a woman's mood. Enjoyed seeing the beauty of Muxia and can imagine your pleasure taking it all in. What a magnificent accomplishment. Thanks for sharing every detail along your WAY.
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