Day 27. May 22. Bus from Muxia to Santiago de Compestella

Day 27. Sunday May 22. Bus from Muxia to Santiago de Compestella

Along with many other pilgrims we got up early to catch the 7:30 bus back to Santiago. Photo 1 shows the dramatic rain-washed dawn sky as we waited for the bus. 

 

 

We arrived in Santiago and made our way by taxi to our albergue appropriately named The Last Stamp (where we received the last alburgue stamp on our pilgrim credential).  

After breakfast Chris suggested going to the pilgrim mass. River was surprised both that Chris suggested it and that she was a little resistant. Inside the cathedral (despite the fact that we were 45 minutes early, the pews were totally full), a very sweet woman gave up her "seat" on the edge of a stone pillar for Chris, (and River, copying a nearby troop of youth pilgrims, sat on the cathedral floor beside her.) These turned out to be great seats where we could stand on the foot of the pillar for a great view of the altar and even snuggle together. River found herself in tears (from the moment the woman (cantor?) who more or less narrated the Mass began to sing) for the entire mass. 

Fortuitously we had a much better location than in 2012 for really appreciating the magical swing of the giant incense burner (botafumeira) which seemed to combine solemn high ritual with childlike play. River was particularly grateful that she, unlike most other pilgrims, had obeyed the request to turn off all phones and cameras, and so was able to fully watch and feel the movement rather than try frantically to "capture" it as she had done (so unsuccessfully) in 2012. 

Photo 2 shows Chris in the cathedral and photo 3 shows both of us snuggling against our stone pillar. (Both taken before mass started and the request to turn off cameras and phones. )

 

 

Then like almost everyone else we went and found a tapas restaurant for lunch before getting settled into our albergue. After a brief nap we went out again for hot chocolate and churros in the sun. This involved a slight adventure because all the tables were full. River's response was to hide in a shady corner waiting for one to become empty, Chris' response (to River's chagrin) was to stand very visibly near the tables waiting for someone to offer to share, which of course happened. Our "hosts" turned out to be two very attractive and interesting brothers who had grown up in Kenya and Rhodesia and London, with an Italian father, who came from their far apart lives in Vancouver Canada and near Heathrow outside London, to walk the Camino together. Both are deeply involved in lives of service, one in care for the environment, the other in interfaith refuge work. The older brother said that walking the Camino had persuaded him that walking may be an essential aspect of being human, going way back to the early hominids who walked out of Africa. 

River had to admit that Chris' style in that situation was very fruitful.  And by the way we really enjoyed our hot. chocolate and churros. 

After yet another brief nap we set out for dinner remembering that on a Sunday evening this might be a real challenge. After a few missteps Chris led us to the very restaurant she remembered loving when we were in Santiago also on a Sunday four years ago (for our future reference: Bierza, Rua a Troia, 10). Even River, when we stepped into the small dining room with only three tables, had a Proustian moment of sensory recognition. Photo 4 shows our view out the window, photo 5 shows our table (and two of the three huge platters of food, which was superb as well as plentiful.) With time and a bottle of wine we managed to eat it all. And not too surprisingly to sleep very well afterwards.